Unravelling textile testing | Pilling

Pilling is the formation of small fluffy balls of fibre on the fabric surface. As a fabric is subjected to daily wear and abrasion, loose fibres become entangled and form ‘pills’ on the surface.

The test determines how resistant fabrics are to pilling.

The same machine is used to test for pilling as for the Martindale abrasion test. Instead of the test fabric being rubbed against a standard abradant, it is rubbed against another piece of the same fabric.

The fabric swatches are rubbed together in a figure 8 motion for a number of cycles, after which the surface appearance is compared to a series of standardised images. The result is measured against a scale of 1-5, with one representing severe pilling and five representing none.

Pilling does not usually indicate a defective fabric, as it is often related to an external fibre source encountering the fabric in combination with other variables such as atmospheric conditions, clothing, and the care and maintenance the fabric has been receiving.

If for example, a beige sofa shows pills in a different colour it is coming from another source – like a throw or cushion.

Another cause can be the absence of a lining in a cushion or upholstery. The use of a barrier cloth or lining prevents the filling from migrating through the fabric and creating a fibre source for pilling to occur.

It is common for upholstery textiles to pill. Generally pilling occurs after the initial usage (within the first 4-6 months) and can be successfully removed with a quality lint shaver.

Reoccurrence of pilling after trimming or shaving is unlikely, but if it does reoccur it will be to a much lesser extent and is likely to gradually subside over time.

Yes, it can.

For example, pilling is a natural process for most woollen textiles and should be considered an inherent characteristic of this natural fibre, rather than a fabric fault. In the same way that new wool carpet will shed and create fluff, the pills on woollen upholstery can be carefully removed with a de-piller without affecting the performance of the cloth.

When it comes to pilling and wool, it’s a conversation that needs to be addressed confidently. Wool is a fantastic textile; it’s malleable, inherently stain resistant, fire retardant, temperature regulating, and has wonderful acoustic properties, but it is more prone to pilling. In commercial settings vacuuming and de-pilling of woollen soft furnishings should be part of the regular maintenance schedule, just as carpets need to be vacuumed.

All soft furnishings require regular care and maintenance – don’t install and ignore.

Regular light vacuuming is important to remove dust and dirt which can become embedded in the weave of upholstery textiles and can act as a damaging abradant, also contributing to pilling! Vacuuming also refreshes the fabric, keeping it looking and feeling its best.

Learn more about textile testing in our articles about Abrasion Resistance, Seam Slippage, and Colourfastness.